HOW TO: Garmin Edge 500 Battery Replacement

After doing my usual Tuesday/Thursday rando Permaent ride earlier this week, today (Saturday) I opted for a shortie meet-up with NCCC (North County Cycle Club) this morning, followed by installation of a new battery in my Garmin 500. Purchased in September, 2010, this little thing has been ticking along in good shape 4-1/2 years. Rain, snow, dirt and heat haven't stopped Garmin. Only now, the battery isn't up to snuff, only lasting 13 hours instead of 18 in the old days!

Instead of the normal exchange program that Garmin likes to do, I opted for a battery replacement instead. For $10.70 delivered, it looked like a good deal to me. Plus, I like to monkey around with stuff till I fix it OR break it! Here we go:

1. The things I used to replace the Battery. (Maybe add in tweezers too!)

2.  Remove 4-Torx #5 screws from back of Garmin

3.  Remove 3-Phillips screws on board (circled above). Do not damage ribbon cable.
Carefully remove board. Pry out old battery.

3.  Be careful not to damage USB & cover seals.
NOTE:Silicone sealer has to be removed before soldering new speaker wires in.

 

4. New battery soldered in. Sealant over speaker soldered connections.
Sticky tape installed. Almost ready to re-assemble.

5. Old foam pads installed over connector with sticky tape.
(These pads help keep the connector in place when closed up.)

6. Fired up and ready to GO! (New battery was 98% charged out of package.)

NOTE: You can detach the ribbon cable/screen from the board with the tiny flip-flop
on-board connector. (Circled pic.#3 above) Don't panic if it comes loose!

Old Garmin battery vs New Cameron Sino battery

 NOTES: 

- You can remove the USB and main cover seal as to not damage them.

- The screen/ribbon cable are removable from the board. There is a tiny black flip-flop (pic #3 above) on the connector.

- The Board is wedged into the case real good. I used a toothpick to pry it out. Don't damage the Board.

- The old battery is really stuck in there with sticky tape. Use something soft to pry it out. Work around the edges.

- You must remove the silicone sealant which covers the speaker terminals before soldering. A fine tip iron works good.

- You can cut the speaker wires instead, soldered the new ones on to the old and seal them alongside the speaker.

- I re-used the old foam pads which press against the battery wires/connector to the Board. That seems to work OK.

- Those Torx and Phillips head screws are tiny. You can use your eyeglass repair kit tools (if you have one).

- Use a low-watt soldering iron (20-25W) for best results. Clean the tip first!

-randorides